Zreduciral sem opremo, 3je sistemi in 30m vrvi, kladivo in 3je klini, malo hrane in pijace in se nekaj toplih oblacil za vsak slucaj in seveda celna svetilka.
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....Hitro sem krenil proti Steni.
....Ob 15ih sem ze na luski v Skalaski. Na tem mestu z ne prevec prijemi si edinkrat namestim varovanje z vrvjo. Navpicno poc 30 m visje hitro preplezam, to mesto zahteva malo vec previdnosti zaradi krusljivosti.
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....Na Gorenjskem turncu sem ob 17ih. Pred sabo zagledam Čopov steber ...
....in zavem se, da je samo se dobra ura dneva. Spomnim se, da sem leta 1983 Skalasko s Čopom presoliral v 3 urah in še iz drugih mojih solo vzponov vem da je ena ura za uplezanega plezalca veliko casa. Odhitim do precke, ki je v spodnjem delu Čopa edino tezje mesto. Hitro sem preko. Nato precim skoraj na desno stran stebra in po lahkem svetu sem hitro na vrhu lazjega prvega dela stebra.
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...Tu se stena spet postavi pokonci. Po parih metrih plosce in po poci pridem do policke, ki me privede do rdece votline.
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... Hitro napredujem po rdeci skali in ze je pred mano previsna poc do druge votline. Ozrem se proti zahodu, a sonce je ze zaslo, ostala je samo se rumeno rdeca zarja na oblacnem nebu....
...Ze v mraku pridem v drugo votlino in hitro nadaljujem s plezanjem. Malo me se ustavi kamincek in previs nad njim, ki ga odplezam po levi strani. Po ne prevec tezkem svetu hitro napredujem. Do izstopne precke me loci se rdec previs, ki ga osvetlim s celno svetilko nato splezam po desni. Medtem se je cisto stemnilo, a celna svetilka odlicno osvetjuje svet okoli mene tako da tudi kljucno mesto hitro splezam. Pred menoj je se zadnji raztezaj. Ta je vedno najlepsi , tudi ta je bil.
Koncal se je ob 19ih.
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...Greben do Kugyeve police in sestop cez Plemenice do Aljazevega doma, prijetna formalnost.
Seznam solerjev Čopovega stebra
On 20 October 2014, shortly after 13.00, I get in my car and leave from Ljubljana for the valley of Vrata, where the Triglav north face is situated. It is past 14.00 when I arrive to Vrata. So, hard work is ahead of me if I wish to start climbing the Skalaška route at around 15.00 and have about 3 hours at my disposal for both the Skalaška route and the Čop pillar. I am aware that it will start getting dark at 18.00.
I minimise my gear to 3 quickdraws, a 30 meter rope, a hammer and 3 pitons, a little bit of food and drink, some warm clothes just in case of need and, of course, a headlamp.
Quickly, I start walking towards the Wall. At 15.00 I am already by the flake at the start of “the Skalaška”. This is the only spot where I use rope for protection because there are not so many handholds here. 30 meters higher, I quickly climb the vertical crack but, at the same time, I am quite careful because of crumbly rock.Na Gorenjskem turncu sem ob 17ih. Pred seboj zagledam Čopov steber, ... Then, I realise that I only have a little more than one hour of daylight left. I remember that in 1983, I made it through “the Skalaška” and the Čop pillar in 3 hours. From my other solo ascents I also know that, in an hour, a climber in a great form can do a lot. I hurry off to the traverse which represents the only harder spot in the lower section of the Čop pillar. I am quickly over it. I then traverse almost entirely to the right edge of the pillar and proceed through the less difficult terrain to find myself at the top of the easier first section of the pillar. Here the wall becomes steep again. After a few meters of slab and then over a crack, I reach a ledge which brings me to the red cavern. I make my way quickly over red rock and already, I find myself at the start of the overhanging crack which leads to the second cavern. I look towards the west, but the sun has already gone down and only a yellow-red dusk remains in the cloudy sky.
Already at dusk I reach the second cavern and continue my climbing with speed. I am slightly slowed down by a chimney and the overhang above it which I climb at its left side. I quickly advance through the not-too-difficult terrain. I am separated from the exit traverse only by a red overhang which I illuminate with my headlamp and climb it at its right. Meanwhile, it got completely dark, but the headlamp is throwing excellent light on the world around me and I quickly climb also the crux, the famous “Čop traverse”. The last pitch only remains. These are always the most beautiful and this one was no different. When I am at the end of it, the time shows 19.00.
The ridge leading to the Kugy ledge and the descent over the Plemenice plateau and down all the way to the Aljaž Lodge is just a pleasant formality.
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Dober trening na URBANROOFu,# BOULDERJI JERNEJA KRUDRA z oceno!!! #, http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=l8u2v5FArUo
skrajša pot.
